It's also sailing in Europe, carrying only 2,400 guests. That's because 44 cabins were removed to add an Asian-themed casino (Hawaii allowed no casino). The other major change? Repainting the hull, costing $1 million, although much interior Hawaiian art remains. Other improvements followed.

I decided to sample the ship's modern charms, melding daytime excursions to ancient eastern Mediterranean sites.

The Jade left dry dock March 30, and I joined the ship shortly thereafter in Alexandria, Egypt. Immediately I toured Cairo, a teeming, congested city of 15 million. I visited the amazing pyramids - at least the three main ones out of the 107 built 4,000 years ago. The Pharaoh Khufu, named Cheops in Greek, chose the Giza Plateau in 2589 B.C. to build his Great Pyramid. Construction took 20 years, and the astounding engineering feat without modern equipment resulted in the world's most gigantic piece of architecture until modern times, 450 feet tall (plus 30 feet lost off the top). And it's the only one of the original Seven Wonders of the Ancient World still standing.

Next was the Egyptian Museum, a major must-see. Although I had seen the Tutankhamen exhibits twice when they traveled to the United States, it's still fascinating to see the gold funerary mask inlaid with lapis lazuli, carnelian and other stones, dating from the 1300s. A gilded throne features a cobra - inlaid with turquoise and lapis lazuli - and lion heads. But much more beckons. Just as Chinese rulers were buried accompanied by statues of soldiers, here are models of 413 statues of servants to the king, meant to bring him back to life: one for each day of the year, one for each week and one for each month.

Aboard the ship, I discovered that dinner choices are many, since the Jade offers 10 restaurants. I joined friends in the Alizar Dining Room, one of two main American-Continental dining rooms with no surcharge. Diners may pop in or, with a large group such as ours, make a reservation.

Lines are never a problem: The ship posts electronic windows showing waiting times. Diners may make reservations or not. Fine restaurants adding surcharges include the lovely Le Bistro for French food, Cagney's for outstanding steak and chops, and Jasmine Garden for Asian cuisine. More casual eats? Also available are The Garden Cafe, Papa's Italian and Paniolo Tapas & Salsa. Lobster is now available in some form nightly, sometimes at market price. And, as many passengers love, there's no dress-up requirement.

Entertainment has added a new spin. I especially enjoyed "SHOUT! The Mod Musical" and "Tony 'n' Tina's Wedding." The highly successful Second City International Cabaret has been expanded to seven players who improvise and interact with audience members in the Spinnaker Lounge. If their success continues, the fleet's other ships will roll out the idea. New events appealing to hipsters include a White Hot Party one night and a Monte Carlo Party another night.

And then to dreamy bedtime. Cabins have received new luxury linens and duvets (suites and villas have new mattresses, and passengers choose from a pillow menu). Those opting for the elegant Courtyard Suites have their own upscale cruise ship within a cruise ship, with many special perks such as their own private courtyard and pool area and special privileges. Also available are 27 wheelchair-accessible cabins; service animals are accommodated as well.

However, the concept of including a surcharge rather than leaving a tip may seem like a good idea, but I found my cabin steward omitted several services to which I was entitled.

The next day I visited Alexandria, Egypt, a newer and cleaner city with great highways. I found antiquities at the Catacombs. The Tigran Tomb stunned with original 2,000-year-old colors showing the mummy of Osiris and other figures, palm fronds and birds. However, the catacombs were flooded and mobbed with so many busloads of tourists, it was impossible to descend to the sarcophagi.

Here the Pharos Lighthouse of Alexandria stood before earthquakes destroyed it. Those who choose not to do an organized tour may scuba dive to see underwater ruins. More exciting, said my guide Zara Adel, UNESCO is building a new lighthouse and glass-bottom boat within five years.

The Alexandria National Museum mounts items of Greek and Roman historical interest, such as an excellent second century A.D. round mosaic of Medusa (with snakes for hair) and jewelry of precious stones from Sinai and the Red Sea. The second floor houses Islamic and Coptic displays, including 17th and 18th century Christian icons and King Farouk's 1930s medals and jewelry.

On the Greek island of Corfu, its castles and three fortresses reflect a history of invasions by other nations until unification with modern Greece in 1864. The car-free Old Town recently was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and therefore is receiving restoration funds. It boasts a charming little church, St. Spyridon, built in 1589, known for its icons. The patron saint is credited with many miracles, and his relics are kept in a golden shrine.

Unlike typical Greek architecture with white stucco and red tile roofs, here the multistoried buildings are squared and pastel-colored. Wandering through the curving streets of Old Town, visitors would swear they're in Venice. It's more Italian here than elsewhere in Greece.

Katakalon, or Olympia, on Greece's mainland, beckons with remains from the famed Temple of Zeus, where the father of the Olympian gods was worshiped. Written records place this as the site of the first Olympic games in 776 B.C. Competitions were then held in August every four years to honor Zeus. Only men could participate, and were nude for their races, javelin and discus throwing, boxing and wrestling. The huge World Heritage Site includes ruins of the Temple of Zeus, Temple of Hera, a 45,000-capacity stadium, baths, treasuries and mansions.

Back aboard the ship, hoping to let my brain cells settle down, I relaxed around the pool. I found a quieter atmosphere aboard the Norwegian Jade than I did on Pride of Hawaii, as the music had been toned down to more of a Cote d'Azur style, rather than a Caribbean beat. Activities such as hairy leg contests had been eliminated! Evian spritzes were delightful and cold towels were distributed hourly.

Inside, the library now boasted coffee setups, so it had become more of a place to relax. For families, the Tree Tops Kids Club had extended its hours and was open on port days. (I noticed many families with small children on my cruise.) The Wipe Out Teens Club has also been enhanced. And in a fee-less Whatever Room, everyone had a chance to play the Wii. NCL has upgraded this ship with many enhancements that will be rolled out across the fleet. While costs may be a bit higher than its other ships, with the U.S. dollar so weak it's still the best way to see Europe, since the cruise is booked in advance in U.S. dollars.

IF YOU GO

For information, contact Norwegian Cruise Line at 866-234-0292, www.ncl.com or contact your travel agent.

Molly Arost Staub is a freelance travel writer.

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